Advice For Travelling In Myanmar
Although Myanmar is an up-and-coming destination for travelers these days, it is still relatively under-explored, making it a top choice for those who like to get off the beaten path. And experienced travelers who have been fortunate enough to visit this exotic country typically say that it’s like visiting Asia 75 years ago. So yes, Myanmar definitely is one of the most exciting travel destinations in the world right now, but do be aware that it does have its logistical quirks. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
Visas: Unless you are a passport holder from an Asian country, China, Bangladesh, or Russia, you should obtain a visa before you go. In the past you could apply for one online, but unfortunately that is no longer the case. Now the best way to apply is directly through a Myanmar consulate or embassy in your home country. It only costs US$20, is good for up to 28 days of traveling within the country, and is valid for 90 days from the date of issue. However, when you describe your occupation on the application it’s best not to say that you are a journalist, photographer, writer, videographer, publisher or anything along those lines. Given the political situation there the government tends to frown upon ‘those kinds of people’. If you need to do so, be creative.
Shwedagon
Money: There are no ATM’s in Myanmar, and you will get horrible exchange rates if you change your money for kyat, Myanmar’s official currency, at the airport or at any of the banks in Myanmar. The black market, which just about everyone uses, is BY FAR the best avenue. You will literally get about a twenty times better rate, which is evidenced by the 'bricks' of money you get for exchanging a mere two or three hundred dollars. And try to only bring crisp and clean US dollar bills with you. I am not exaggerating here. It’s best to have only brand new bills that you got directly from a bank back home if at all possible. A heavily worn $100 bill may as well be toilet paper to the locals, and even a slightly worn bill may be extremely difficult to exchange. Larger notes like $100’s will get better rates, but due to concerns about counterfeiting in the past make sure none of your $100’s have ‘CB’ at the start of the serial number, as they may not be accepted. Also note that credit cards and travelers checks are practically useless in Myanmar. Only a few high-end hotels in Yangon and Mandalay accept them, and they charge very high commission fees for doing so. Cash is king.
Inle Lake
Getting Around The Country: The roads between cities, even the major ones, can be pretty horrendous and may even be impassable during the rainy season. So unless you have lots of time and a very strong constitution you should try to fly the longer stretches between major destinations. However, make sure to use one of the private airlines like Air Bagan, Air Mandalay or Yangon Airways, and do your best to avoid Myanmar Airways which is run by the government. Myanmar Airways’s planes are famous for being unsafe, and using them puts more money into the military junta’s pockets. The same goes for using what few trains there are – they are government-run and in pretty terrible condition. It’s also possible to travel by river boat which can make for interesting scenery, but if you are short on time beware that it can literally take days to get to your destination.
Internet Access: Ever since the 2007 protests against the government, the military junta has tried its best to severely limit access to the internet. Most top-end hotels do have it though, and there are still a fair number of internet cafes around Yangon and Mandalay. In other cities and towns access to the web can be pretty sparse. Wherever there is access, the locals typically use special websites that help them bypass the government blocks to many sites such as Gmail, Yahoo and Facebook. However when you do get access, the speeds can be excruciatingly slow, so definitely don’t plan on easily sharing photos and videos while you are in the country. And you probably should let friends and family know about the limited web access there ahead of time, so that they don’t get worried if it happens to take you a while to get back to them about something.
Monks
As I said, Myanmar does have its idiosyncrasies when it comes to traveling there. It is definitely not as easy as traveling to, say, Thailand next door. But getting to experience such a beautiful, culturally enriched country that so few outsiders have explored makes these relatively minor inconveniences more than worth it. Likewise, the traveler in me finds these sorts of nuances make the journey all the more interesting.
Keith Hajovsky, aka Travel Sherpa Keith, is a travel consultant and tour leader for Southeast Asia and beyond
All photos courtesy and copyright Keith Hajovsky