Kia Ora  (Maori Hello)
   
We tendered ashore to a paradise referred to as the cradle of New Zealand civilization. The Bay of Isles is steeped in history, dressed resplendently in natural beauty, alive with interesting wildlife, and rife with opportunities for kayaking, fishing, scuba diving, surfing, sport fishing and swimming.

Tendering ashore

    
Local wharfs could not accommodate a cruise ship, so smaller vessels transported us from ship to docks in Waitangi or Russell, and a ferry allowed easy travel between these two points. We chose a drop off in Waitangi, just around the bend from Paihai, a scenic little resort town of approximately 1800 permanent residents spread over a wide area that includes not only Paihia but also Waitangi and Haruru. Area citizenry sounds a public outcry if any developer suggests a building of more than three stories. So far resistance from locals has kept Paihai skyscraper free. In the New Zealand summer the population of the area swells to 20,000. Even then there is the enveloping charm of a quaint seaside village.

A street in Paihai

   
Captain Cook sailed into the Bay of Islands in 1769, claiming it for his British homeland. Noting the profusion of islands he gave the area its appropriate moniker. Not every one of the 144 islands is large; a rock, barely showing a bit above the brilliant azure water, counts as an island. Captain Cook met the Maori people occupying the Bay of Islands and wrote of them: ‘they are agreeable to the eye.’ Maori chieftains and the British signed the Treaty of Waitangi here in 1840. The treaty supposedly guaranteed Maori tribal authority, but allowed the British the right to purchase the land and govern the country.
   
The islands look today pretty much as they did when Captain Cook arrived. The coastline is dotted with beautiful coves and rock formations. The most famous of these is the Hole in the Rock, which, as its names suggests, is a huge rock with a hole large enough to allow a small boat to glide through.
   
In Paihai, Shona Hunter of Total Tours provided us with “A Little Taste of My Paradise.” Four years ago Shona and her husband decided Paihai was the perfect place to retire. I asked how she felt about that decision today. She smiled and said, “I am grateful each day for the choice we made.”
   
And why shouldn’t she be? She has hiking trails for solitude and communing with nature, beaches where she can soak up the sun, and everywhere she looks there is astonishing beauty. She has a business she loves and meets interesting people every day.
   
Shona drove us through an area of forest called a Kiwi Zone. No dogs are allowed unless secured inside a vehicle. The only exception is during “clear felling” trees (cutting timber), when special dogs are allowed to flush out the kiwi before the trees come crashing down. Kiwis nest on the ground and their safety is a serious concern when clearing forests. I desperately wanted to spot a Kiwi, but those nocturnal animals were not about to show themselves to an intruder, especially not during daylight. It would take a visit to the Auckland Zoo to satisfy that wish.
   
Haruru Falls made an alluring next stop. It is the only falls, other than Niagara, that is horseshoe shaped. Although much smaller than Niagara Falls, Haruru Falls’appeal is not diminished by its diminutive size.

Haruru Falls

   
A few minutes later we stood overlooking the bay from high atop a hill, and I was struck by the quiet. I heard birds, but not another sound. After being on a noisy cruise ship for many days, it was gratifying to hear birds singing in nearby trees rather than the muffled idle chatter of a ship load of passengers.

Looking down on the bay and enjoying a quiet moment

   
Bob and I had hoped to take the “A Taste of the Bay of Islands” tour: a wine, food, and craft tour. But, our cruise ship was the first of the season and the tour wasn’t yet available; I put it at the top of our list of reasons for a return visit. The tour promises a stop at Get Fudged and Makana Confectioners where I would have been plied with plenty of samples to satisfy my sweet tooth. That would have been followed by an opportunity to peruse craft studios including one that fashions gifts from rare Kauri timber grown only in New Zealand. See why I was unhappy to miss this?
   
Next we would have lunched overlooking the lush countryside and spent an afternoon tasting wine at vineyards ranging from award-winning to quirky. I have never tasted wine with pigs as close companions. The Bay of Isles was the first area of New Zealand to cultivate grape vines. Wine, now a big business, got off to a slow, shaky start. The English weren't big wine drinkers so did little to encourage the growth of vineyards. During World War II, soldiers from other countries demanded wine and got their English buddies drinking it too.
   
Of all of the stops on the Food, Wine and Craft tour, the one that had my name written all over it, and that I most deeply regretted missing, was Kaleidoscope World. It gets the top slot on my list of things to do next time. I collect and am fascinated by these psychedelic delights. It pains me that I lost the opportunity to scrutinize hand-made musical kaleidoscopes or one called the world of bubbles. For these I would have made room in my luggage. I think Shona told us about this shop to guarantee our return to New Zealand.
   
After our abbreviated version of the tour ended we walked through a local market searching for possum socks. To Americans, possum may be road-kill, but New Zealanders appreciate this fur for its tremendous warmth. Apparently, possum hair shafts are hollow and retain heat. We finally found the socks and they cost $40. But how can you put a price on such luxury? 

The Market in Paihai and bit of local shopping

   
For those wishing something other than organized tours, an attractive alternative is simply relaxing in the sun with a good book. I had Dan Brown’s “The Lost Symbol” which was way too long, got boring a third of the way into it, and provided an unsatisfying ending that made no sense. (That’s my 30 word quickie review of a 500+ page book I don’t recommend as a beach read.)
   
The Bay of Islands has less than ideal surfing because the water is so sheltered, but it is perfect for swimming. A few islands can be visited only during the day and must be left as the sun sets. There are also many privately owned islands. Somewhere you will find your perfect secluded beach.

Looking at Paihai in the distance as we ferry to Russell

   
We left Paihai in the afternoon and ferried to Russell.  Once known as the hell-hole of the Pacific, it is now a favored tourist destination of New Zealanders and visitors from other countries as well.  Its former unflattering reputation reflected the impact of its early residents: whalers and criminals who lived there after they served their time. This disproportionate male, and often dishonest, population made for a rough and rowdy social scene.

School girls performing a native dance

   
Bob and I walked the short blocks of this tiny town, checked out the local museum (early Maori and whaling history) and watched children perform a traditional Maori dance. We surveyed the goods in yet another souvenir shop where I found an unusual necklace made of lava and opal. It was sure to be one of my favorite souvenirs; it would fit easily into some small nook or cranny of my bulging suitcase.

Souvenir shops along Russell street

   
It was beginning to drizzle and we decided to call it a day. At a local grocery I plunked down some New Zealand dollars for a Cadbury Crème Brule bar to help me stave off hunger in the unlikely event I couldn’t find enough food aboard the cruise ship. We boarded the tender for a wet ride back. Waves splashing over the sides guaranteed we arrived aboa rd the Dawn Princss cold and wet, but happy for another day's memories.

Haera ra (good bye in Maori).

Julie Albrecht Royce, Travel Adventures Editor, is the author of Traveling Michigan's Sunset Coast and Traveling Michigan's Thumb, both published by Thunder Bay Press. She writes a monthly column for Wandering Educators.

All photos courtesy and copyright Robert and Julie Royce