Healers, henna artists, snake charmers, storytellers, trained monkeys (some complete with diapers), and cross-dressing belly dancers clamor for my attention in Jemaa el-Fnaa. Tantalizing clouds of smoke rise from food stands, while Berber musicians play harmonic melodies to accompany our meal.

The entrance to the room is chilling, a welcoming escape from the sweltering heat outside. An imposing archway is inscribed with the rhyme Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamo, and the walls of the chapel can be seen beyond. As you step into the dimly lit space, and see the macabre contents, it is surprising that you do not faint dead away.