Recently I returned from walking an ancient pilgrimage trail, the Camino de Santiago de Compostela,  from St-Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain. The trail is around 850 kilometres long and each night I stayed in a tiny hotel or hostel, many of which were well off the beaten tourist track or relatively unknown. Two of these hotels happen to be in the gracious and historical town of León, the capital of the Castilla y León region and each could be aptly described as a little bit of ‘paradise’.

Camino de Santiago - looking up

Cathedral, Leon

I happened to stay at the Casa de Espiritualidad (Real Colegiata de San Isidoro) for four nights while I was in the process of walking the Camino. I had a problem with my foot and was limping badly when I arrived at the hotel. I was treated with the greatest of kindness by Marissa and Gema the two ladies who manage reception and they packed me off in a taxi to a hospital for treatment (which worked, thankfully). I needed antibiotics and without my lifting a finger (or a foot) the nearest 'farmacia' was contacted and summonsed to collect my prescription, make it up and deliver the goods to my room - amazing - that sort of care and attention isn't often found in 5 star hotels.

Camino de Santiago de Compostela - Casa de Espiritualidad, Leon

Luckily, I couldn't walk very far to get to a restaurant in the evening. Lucky because the food in the Colegiata’s restaurant is fantastic. Four courses (choices) are served every night, with wine and at an average price of 16 Euro per meal (wine included). I ate what I consider to be the best and most memorable meal of my whole 5 week trip. It consisted of a choice of soup or seafood terrain, a marvellous dish of thinly sliced, lightly cooked fresh vegetables served with a spicy sauce, followed by a plate of two whole, baked ocean trout with a mixed salad on the side. There were 6 desserts on the menu but as the only word I could understand was 'chocolate' I chose that. It came as a round chocolate brulee/mousse topped with a white chocolate brulee and  floating on thick chocolate sauce, with a dollop of vanilla ice-cream on the side. I ate every luscious spoonful and after coffee and even more chocolate I literally waddled back to my comfortable single room. As well as being a memorable meal the pleasant restaurant staff were attentive and helpful.

As for the accommodation, I couldn't ask for more. There was no noise other than the occasional sound of laughter in the hallway. The hotel is centrally located, open all year and I was very happy staying here as a single guest. My room had everything I needed including an excellent bathroom with hair dryer.  The guestroom was fitted with a flat screen TV and a shuttered window overlooking the street below. The hotel is air-conditioned and facilities include a lift, chapel, and telephone.  The extra large bed was comfortable and made with sheets sporting the emblem of the Colegiata. I hope to stay here again when I come back to Spain to walk the 120 kilometres of the Camino I missed out on walking this time. I was forced to travel this section by bus, because of my foot injury.

Double ensuite rooms from around €90.00 including an all you can eat breakfast. A discount is offered to pilgrims and special prices are available for singles.  Credit cards are accepted.           

www.sanisidorodeleon.es         

Camino de Santiago - cars

León is a stopping point on the ancient pilgrimage route through France and Spain, the Camino Frances, part of the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims have been walking this route for over 1000 years with the aim of reaching the magnificent Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the tomb of Christ’s Apostle, St James.  However, not all pilgrims walk the Camino for spiritual reasons. I chatted to people who were walking because they were training for a marathon, wanted to meet people, wanted to discover Spain, for cultural reasons, wanted to practice Spanish and even one bloke who told me he was looking for a wife!  It was a hugely challenging walk – mentally, physically and spiritually and one of the hardest things I have ever done in my life. However, the people I met along the way, the friendship of fellow pilgrims, the glorious scenery, the history and the rich culture of rural Spain, the Tapas, paella and my favourite dish of all, Garlic Soup (Sopa de Ajo), as well as the wine all helped to make it worthwhile.

Flowers, Camino de Santiago

Camino de Santiago - Old Men Resting

Read a day to day account of my 850 kilometre walk along the Camino at  www.goodnightandgodbless.com

Camino de Santiago. Casa de Espiritualidad, Leon 

Camino de Santiago . Well dressed ladies in Leon, Spain

The Hospedería Pax Monástica is another excellent hotel situated in this beautiful city and which is run by a religious order.  Hospitable Benedictine nuns have resurrected a vacant building adjoining their convent and turned it into a comfortable, welcoming hotel which overlooks a quiet plaza near the centre of the town. The sisters have completed a most effective renovation of the interior of the building and this modern hotel has been awarded 3 star status. Guestrooms are spacious, airy and spotlessly clean.  Breakfast is available in the dining room but other meals are only offered to groups. However, there are excellent cafes and bars in the plaza in front of the building. The hotel is air-conditioned and rooms are equipped with TV, telephone and mini-bar. There is an onsite chapel, Internet facilities, a lift and parking is available. Rooms are available for those who are disabled and the hotel is open all year round.

Camino de Santiago. Plaza in front of Hospederia Pax

Camino de Santiago. Hospederia Pax, Leon

Double ensuite rooms are from around €70.00 per night including breakfast. A discount is offered to pilgrims and special prices are available for single travellers.  Credit cards are accepted.                  

Trish Clark is author of Good Night and God Bless: A Guide to Convent and Monastery Accommodation in Europe, Vols I and II, both published by Hidden Spring, an imprint of Paulist Press NJ. She writes a monthly column for wanderingeducators.com as the European Accommodation Editor.

You can find her at http://goodnightandgodbless.com/