Driving the Ring of Kerry, and want to get off the beaten path? Head to Staigue Fort - it's between Sneem and Caherciveen, off a tiny road inland. You will drive a very narrow lane, but keep following the signs. There's a visitor centre with films (and a cafe), although we never stopped there. Park your car in the lot and pay your voluntary entrance fee. Skip across the creek, and climb a small hill to get to the fort.